The generation of offshore tidal sand banks and sand waves

A simple morphological model is considered which describes the interaction between a tidal flow and an erodible bed in a shallow sea. The basic state of this model describes a spatially uniform tide over a flat bottom where the flow vector is represented as a tidal ellipse. The linear stability of this solution is analysed with respect to bed form perturbations. Results are presented for both a uni-directional and circular tide. In the former case the wave-length and the orientation of the fastest growing bed mode agree well with those of tidal sand banks. However, this model only predicts the growth of large-scale sand ridges. With a simplified numerical model we tentatively show that the effects of secondary currents on the sediment transport trigger the formation of instabilities at an essentially smaller scale, viz, sand waves. Another limitation of a model with uni-directional tides is that no selective modes found are the first to become unstable if the model parameters are varied. In the case of a circular tide, critical model parameters are found below which the basic state is stable. We conclude that this provides a starting point for the development of a weakly non-linear analysis, which will yield information on the amplitude behaviour of marginally growing bed forms

Circulation, Sediment Concentration and Oxygen Depletion in the Tidal Ems River

We present measurements which show that the tidal Ems River in Germ any is extremely muddy over a 30 km + turbid zone, with fluid mud o f 1-2 m thickness covering the bed with suspended sediment concentrations (SSC) o f greater than 50 kg.m-3. Moreover, we show that these elevated SSC contain large quantities of organic material which deplete dissolved oxygen (DO) and produce summertime hypoxic zones. Using mathematical modeling, we develop simplified representations o f the estuary physics that reproduce the tidally-averaged circulation, SSC distribution, and oxygen depletion. These models show that SSC and oxygen concentrations are extremely sensitive to factors such as the mean depth, the mixing due to bottom friction (turbulence), and river flow. The observed increase in SSC and decrease in DO over the past 25 years is linked to the progressive deepening o f the tidal Em s from 4-5 m to 7 m between 1985- 1994, which moved the turbid zone upstream and decreased mixing. A review of scientific literature and data from the Em s suggests that hum an intervention (dyking,channel modification) combines with more gradual natural changes (sea level rise, climate variation) to continually modify sediment transport

Hydrodynamics and Morphology in the Ems/Dollard Estuary: Review of Models, Measurements, Scientific Literature, and the Effects of Changing Conditions

The Ems estuary has constantly changed over the past centuries both from man-made and natural influences. On the time scale of thousands of years, sea level rise has created the estuary and dynamically changed its boundaries. More recently, storm surges created the Dollard sub-basin in the 14th -15th centuries. Beginning in the 16th century, diking and reclamation of land has greatly altered the surface area of the Ems estuary, particularly in the Dollard. These natural and anthropogenic changes to the surface area of the Ems altered the flow patterns of water, the tidal characteristics, and the patterns of sediment deposition and erosion. Since 1945, reclamation of land has halted and the borders of the Ems estuary have changed little. Sea level rise has continued, and over the past 40 years the rate of increase in mean high water (MHW) along the German coast has accelerated to 40 cm/ century. Climate has varied on a decadal time scale due to long-term variations in the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), which controls precipitation, temperature, and the direction and magnitude of winds. Between 1960 and 1990 the most intense variation in the NAO index on record was observed. As a result the magnitude and frequency of storm surges increased, and mean wave heights increased at 1-2 cm/year. Currently the NAO index—and therefore storminess—is trending downwards. Over the longer term, global warming models predict an average temperature rise of 2 degrees Celsius over the next century. A doubling of CO2 is expected to increase sea level by 30 cm, while the significant wind speed and wave heights in the North Sea are predicted to increase by 50 cm/s and 50 cm, respectively. Beginning in the late 1950’s, dredging activity and construction measures in harbours and shipping channels greatly altered the physical processes in the Ems. Deepening and streamlining the Ems River and shipping channel between the 1960s and 1990s decreased the hydraulic roughness and increased the tidal range in the river above Emden by as much as 1.5 m. At the turbidity maximum between Emden and Papenburg, concentrations of sediment are currently between 1-2 orders of magnitude larger than in the 1950’s, and fluid mud layers of several meters thickness occur. Other man-made changes, such as gas pipelines and the expansion of harbours, have often caused significant, but more localized, changes to the estuary. Between the mid 19th century and the 1970’s, dumping of organic waste—agricultural, industrial, and human—severely stressed the ecology of the Dollard sub-basin in particular. Since then the input of organic waste has been greatly reduced and anoxic conditions eliminated. However, the increase in turbidity at the turbidity maximum has caused depleted oxygen concentrations and periodic anoxia between Pogum and Papenburg during the summer months (personal communication, H. Juergens; Talke et al, 2005). The Ems is a relatively well studied estuary. Significant research projects have included the BOEDE project in the 1970’s --1980’s and the BOA and INTRAMUD projects in the 1990’s. These projects and other efforts have amassed a deep literature in the knowledge of tidal flats, fluid mud and flocculation, and mixing and dispersion processes. Projects currently underway are focusing on tidal dynamics and the affects of dredging in the high turbidity zone between Emden and Herbrum. Optimal management of the estuary is the goal of the HARBASINS project. Many analytical and numerical models have been applied to the Ems estuary to estimate tidal range, storm surges, wave fields, sediment transport, and mixing and dispersion processes. Analytical models to estimate mixing of scalars and sediment fluxes (Sediment Trend Analysis) have been extensively used. Numerical models such as WAQUA, unTRIM, MIKE3, Telemac 2D, SWAN, Delft 3D –Sed, and others have been applied to the Ems. While reasonable results are found for short term processes (order of days), long-term morphological change cannot yet be predicted. For the Ems catchement basin, the numerical models REGFLUD and FLUMAGIS are used to estimate nutrient inputs from diffuse sources and to visualize and evaluate the effects of land-use change

Пошук витоків народного календаря

Рецензія на монографію: Мойсей А.А. Магія і мантика у народному календарі східнороманського населення Буковини. – Чернівці, 2008. – 320 с.: 16 іл

Patch behaviour and predictability propierties of modelled finite-amplitude sand ridges on the inner shelf

The long-term evolution of shoreface-connected sand ridges is investigated with a nonlinear spectral model which governs the dynamics of waves, currents, sediment transport and the bed level on the inner shelf. Wave variables are calculated with a shoaling-refraction model instead of using a parameterisation. The spectral model describes the time evolution of amplitudes of known eigenmodes of the linearised system. Bottom pattern formation occurs if the transverse bottom slope of the inner shelf, β, exceeds a critical value βc. For fixed model parameters the sensitivity of the properties of modelled sand ridges to changes in the number (N−1) of resolved subharmonics (of the initially fastest growing mode) is investigated. For any N the model shows the growth and subsequent saturation of the height of the sand ridges. The saturation time scale is several thousands of years, which suggests that observed sand ridges have not reached their saturated stage yet. The migration speed of the ridges and the average longshore spacing between successive crests in the saturated state differ from those in the initial state. Analysis of the potential energy balance of the ridges reveals that bed slope-induced sediment transport is crucial for the saturation process. In the transient stage the shoreface-connected ridges occur in patches. The overall characteristics of the bedforms (saturation time, final maximum height, average longshore spacing, migration speed) hardly vary with N. However, individual time series of modal amplitudes and bottom patterns strongly depend on N, thereby implying that the detailed evolution of sand ridges can only be predicted over a limited time interval. Additional experiments show that the critical bed slope βc increases with larger offshore angles of wave incidence, larger offshore wave heights and longer wave periods, and that the corresponding maximum height of the ridges decreases whilst the saturation time increases.Postprint (published version

On the physics behind coastal morphodynamic patterns

Peer ReviewedPostprint (published version

Long-term morphodynamics of a coupled shelf-shoreline system forced by waves and tides, a model approach

Sand ridges, with length scales of several km, are prominent features of the seafloor landscape of many sandy continental shelves. Knowledge about the extent to which these ridges influence the large-scale (i.e., decadal and kilometer scales) morphodynamic evolution of the adjacent shoreline and vice versa (shelf-shoreline morphodynamic coupling) is limited. The present work aims at quantifying this coupling by using a coupled nonlinear shelf-shoreline model forced by tides and different wave conditions. Model results show that the presence of sand ridges on the shelf creates longshore non-uniform wave patterns, which act as a forcing template for the morphodynamic development of the shoreline. The shelf-shoreline coupling primarily works one way, meaning that the morphodynamic evolution of the shelf affects the evolution of the shoreline. When wave propagation is predominantly aligned with the long axis of the shelf ridges, the forced shoreline undulations are so prominent, that they affect the shelf morphology (significant two-way coupling). Moreover, for those waves, the longshore spacing of the ridges is strongly imprinted on the shoreline morphology. Weaker shoreline undulations develop for waves that propagate more across the ridges and the weakest for time-varying wave conditions with large variability in their angles of propagation. Model results compare fairly well with observations. Physical mechanisms underlying the different morphodynamic responses of the coupled shelf-shoreline system to different wave conditions are also given.Postprint (author's final draft

The role of surface rollers on the formation of surfzone transverse sand bars

Peer ReviewedPostprint (published version